How to Sew an Invisible Zipper: A Guide for Beginner Sewers
I use invisible zippers in the majority of my projects (like in my Agua Bendita Dupe and this floral two piece set).
The truth is, they have a way of making my dresses look cleaner with a more refined finish.
Sewing an invisible zipper can seem intimidating, but with the right steps, it becomes much easier. An invisible zipper is a type of zipper that is sewn in such a way that the zipper teeth are hidden, creating a seamless and nearly invisible closure.
So, if you’ve ever wondered how to sew an invisible zipper, here’s an in-depth, step-by-step breakdown to guide you through the process:
What Is The Point of an Invisible Zipper?
Before jumping in, you may be asking your self why even use an invisible zipper. Why not sew with a traditional zipper?
The point of an invisible zipper is to create a seamless and discreet closure in garments (like I did in this DIY Rodarte Dress Dupe). Unlike a regular zipper where the teeth are exposed and visible, an invisible zipper is designed to be nearly invisible when the garment is closed. This type of zipper is often used in garments where maintaining a smooth and uninterrupted appearance is crucial, such as formal dresses, evening gowns, skirts, and other pieces where aesthetics and design precision are paramount.
The key benefits and purposes of using an invisible zipper include:
Aesthetic Appeal:
Invisible zippers create a clean and polished look since the zipper teeth are hidden within the seam allowance. This results in a sleek and uninterrupted fabric surface when the zipper is closed.
Enhanced Design:
Garments with intricate patterns, delicate fabrics, or decorative elements benefit from invisible zippers. These zippers avoid disrupting the design and maintain the overall flow and integrity of the fabric.
Professional Finish:
Invisible zippers are often associated with high-end and couture clothing due to their sophisticated appearance. Using invisible zippers showcases attention to detail and craftsmanship.
Comfort:
Traditional zippers can sometimes create discomfort, especially on delicate or sensitive skin. Invisible zippers lie flat against the body, minimizing the chances of discomfort.
Versatility:
While invisible zippers are commonly used in formalwear, they can also be utilized in everyday clothing for a sleek look. This makes them versatile for various fashion styles.
Photography and Events:
In garments meant for photography, film, or special events, invisible zippers can help maintain a seamless appearance, ensuring that the focus remains on the design and the wearer.
Sewing in an invisible zipper requires a bit more skill and attention to detail compared to regular zippers. However, the final result is well worth the effort, as it elevates the overall appearance of the garment and contributes to a polished and elegant finish.
Materials You’ll Need:
- Sewing machine
- Needle & Thread
Garment fabric pieces (e.g., a skirt or dress with an open seam)
How to Sew an Invisible Zipper
Step 1: Prepare the Fabric
Ensure that the two fabric pieces you want to join with the zipper have their raw edges finished. You can use an overlock stitch, zigzag stitch, or serge the edges to prevent fraying. Iron the fabric pieces to remove any wrinkles and make the sewing process smoother.
Step 2: Open the Zipper
Partially unzip the invisible zipper. With the zipper unzipped, you’ll press it flat with an iron. This step will make it easier to handle during the sewing process.
Step 3: Position the Zipper
Place the invisible zipper face down on the right side of one fabric piece. The zipper coil should align with the outer edge of the fabric and the top stop (the metal part at the top of the zipper) should be about 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) below the fabric edge. Place the zipper tape flat and align with the fabric edges.
Step 4: Pin the Zipper
Pin the zipper in place along the length of the zipper tape. Insert the pins perpendicular to the fabric edge to keep the zipper securely positioned.
Step 5: Sew the Zipper Tape
Attach the zipper foot to your sewing machine. Remember that an invisible zipper requires an invisible zipper foot (not a regular zipper foot) which has two grooves that allow the close stitching to the zipper teeth which hides the zipper tape within the seam allowance.
Starting at the top of the zipper tape, sew along the edge of the zipper tape, moving towards the zipper pull. Stitch as close to the teeth as possible without sewing over them. Sew slowly and remove the pins as you go.
Step 6: Adjust the Zipper Foot
Once you reach the zipper pull, stop with the needle down in the fabric. Lift the presser foot and gently pull the zipper pull past the sewing machine foot. Lower the presser foot again, making sure the needle is in the fabric.
Step 7: Sew the Remaining Zipper Tape
Continue sewing down the other side of the zipper tape until you reach the bottom stop. Again, stop with the needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot, and gently pull the zipper pull past the foot.
Step 8: Check the Zipper
Zip up the zipper to ensure it functions correctly and lies smoothly along the fabric edges. If needed, use a seam ripper to carefully remove any basting stitches or adjust the zipper for a better fit.
Step 9: Close the Seam
With the zipper in place, fold the fabric pieces right sides together along the zipper line. Pin the remaining seam below the zipper, making sure the edges match precisely.
Step 10: Sew the Seam
Starting at the top of the zipper, sew the seam below the zipper, backstitching at the beginning and end. Continue sewing the rest of the seam until you reach the bottom edge.
Step 11: Check the Zipper
Again Open and close the zipper to ensure it works smoothly and the fabric lies flat along the seam.
Step 12: Finish the Seam
Finish the raw edges of the seam using your preferred method, such as serging or zigzag stitching.
Congratulations! You’ve successfully sewn an invisible zipper into your garment. With practice, you’ll find it becomes easier to achieve a professional and nearly invisible closure.
FAQ
Are invisible zippers hard to sew?
Sewing invisible zippers may initially seem challenging, especially for beginners, but with practice and the right techniques, they become manageable. The key to successfully sewing invisible zippers is to take your time, follow the steps carefully, and practice on scrap fabric before working on your final garment. Here are some factors to consider:
Skill Level: Sewing invisible zippers is typically considered an intermediate-level sewing skill. If you’re new to sewing or zippers in general, it’s a good idea to practice on simpler projects before attempting an invisible zipper.
Sewing Machine Foot: An invisible zipper foot is essential for sewing invisible zippers. This specialized foot has grooves that allow you to stitch close to the zipper teeth while keeping the fabric flat. Using the correct foot greatly improves the accuracy of the stitching.
Accuracy: Precise stitching is crucial when sewing invisible zippers. Take your time to align the zipper tape perfectly with the fabric edge and ensure that the stitching is as close to the teeth as possible without sewing over them.
Pressing: Pressing the zipper tape and fabric before and after sewing helps create a smooth and clean finish. Use an iron to flatten the zipper tape and seams, ensuring that the fabric lies flat.
Practice: Practice makes perfect. If you’re new to sewing invisible zippers, practice on scrap fabric or a sample piece before sewing it onto your final garment. This will help you become comfortable with the process and develop the necessary skills.
Basting: Some sewers find it helpful to baste (temporary hand stitch) the zipper in place before machine sewing. Basting ensures that the zipper is properly aligned and makes it easier to sew accurately.
Tension and Speed: Sew at a moderate speed and maintain consistent tension on the fabric. Avoid pulling the fabric or forcing it through the machine, as this can lead to uneven stitching.
Patience: Sewing invisible zippers may require more time and patience compared to regular zippers. Take breaks if needed and don’t rush the process.
Remember, with practice and perseverance, you’ll become more confident in sewing invisible zippers. Once you’ve mastered the technique, you’ll appreciate the professional and elegant finish they add to your garments.
Do I need a special foot to sew an invisible zipper?
Yes, you do need a special sewing machine foot called an “invisible zipper foot” to sew an invisible zipper. An invisible zipper foot is designed specifically for this type of zipper, and it makes the sewing process much easier and more accurate. Here’s why the invisible zipper foot is important:
Grooves for Accuracy: An invisible zipper foot has grooves or channels on the underside that allow you to stitch close to the zipper teeth while keeping the fabric flat. This ensures that the stitching is precise and positioned right next to the teeth without catching them.
Optimal Alignment: The grooves on the foot help you align the fabric and zipper tape accurately. This is crucial for achieving a seamless and professional look.
Avoiding Bulky Seams: Invisible zippers are often used in garments with delicate or lightweight fabrics. The invisible zipper foot helps prevent the fabric from getting caught in the zipper teeth and creating bulky seams.
Consistency: Using the correct foot ensures consistent stitching throughout the zipper length. This results in an even and polished appearance.
Efficiency: The specialized design of the invisible zipper foot allows you to sew the zipper faster and more efficiently compared to using a regular presser foot.
If you’re planning to sew invisible zippers regularly, investing in an invisible zipper foot is highly recommended. It’s a small investment that can significantly improve the quality of your sewing and the finished look of your garments. Many sewing machine brands offer compatible invisible zipper feet that can be attached to their machines.
What are the disadvantages of invisible zippers?
While invisible zippers offer numerous advantages, they do come with some disadvantages that are important to consider. Here are a few potential drawbacks associated with using invisible zippers:
Skill Level Required: Sewing invisible zippers can be challenging, especially for beginners. The technique requires precise alignment and stitching close to the zipper teeth without catching them. It may take some practice to master this skill.
Specialized Foot Required: To sew invisible zippers effectively, you need an invisible zipper foot. If you don’t have this specific foot for your sewing machine, you’ll need to purchase one, which can add to the overall cost.
Limited Weight Capacity: Invisible zippers are best suited for lightweight to medium-weight fabrics. They may not be suitable for heavy or bulky fabrics where a sturdier closure is required.
Difficulty in Alterations: Once an invisible zipper is installed, alterations to the garment can be more challenging. If the fit needs adjustment, the zipper might need to be removed and reinstalled, which can be time-consuming and may not yield the same seamless result as the initial installation.
Not as Durable: In comparison to traditional zippers, invisible zippers may be less durable over time, particularly if they are subjected to frequent stress or strain. The delicate nature of the zipper teeth may lead to teeth breakage or the zipper pull coming off.
Cost: Invisible zippers tend to be more expensive than regular zippers, adding to the overall cost of your project.
Limited Usage: While invisible zippers are excellent for achieving a seamless look, they may not be suitable for all types of garments. For garments that require quick and easy closure, such as activewear or casual clothing, traditional zippers or other fasteners might be more practical.
Length Limitation: The length of invisible zippers is typically limited by the availability of commercially produced options. This limitation can be problematic for garments that require longer closures.
Installation Time: Sewing an invisible zipper can take more time and patience compared to installing other types of zippers. This might be a concern if you’re working on a project with a tight deadline.
While these disadvantages exist, they don’t necessarily make invisible zippers unsuitable. The key is to weigh the pros and cons based on the specific requirements of your project. With practice and experience, the challenges associated with invisible zippers can be mitigated, allowing you to achieve elegant and seamless closures in your garments.
What is the seam allowance for an invisible zipper?
The recommended seam allowance for sewing an invisible zipper is typically 5/8 inch (1.6 cm). This is the standard seam allowance used in many sewing patterns and is commonly used in garment construction. However, the exact seam allowance can vary depending on the pattern you’re using and your personal preferences.
What makes an invisible zipper “invisible”?
An invisible zipper is designed to be nearly invisible when the garment is closed. The short answer to how this is accomplished is primarily due to the way its teeth and tape are constructed and sewn into the fabric.
However, it can be a bit more nuanced than that. Here’s what makes an invisible zipper “invisible”:
Concealed Teeth: The most significant factor that contributes to the invisibility of the zipper is the design of its teeth. Unlike traditional zippers with visible metal or plastic teeth, the teeth of an invisible zipper are much finer and are tucked within the fabric tape. This minimizes their visibility from the outside of the garment when the zipper is closed.
Color Match: Invisible zippers are often available in a range of colors that can closely match the color of the fabric. This color matching further helps in camouflaging the zipper, making it blend seamlessly into the fabric.
Flat Application: Invisible zippers are sewn into the fabric using a specialized technique that involves attaching the zipper tape flat against the fabric surface. The sewing is done very close to the teeth, allowing the fabric to cover the teeth and conceal them effectively.
Hidden Zipper Pull: When the zipper is closed, the zipper pull is positioned behind the fabric tape. This ensures that the pull does not protrude from the garment surface, further contributing to the invisible appearance.
Smooth Transition: The sewing technique used for invisible zippers creates a smooth and uninterrupted transition from the fabric to the zipper tape. This results in a seamless fabric surface when the zipper is closed.
Precision in Installation: Sewing an invisible zipper requires accurate alignment and stitching along the zipper tape. This precision ensures that the zipper is seamlessly integrated into the fabric, making it difficult to spot when the garment is worn.
These design elements and sewing techniques combined make an invisible zipper almost imperceptible when the garment is fastened, achieving a clean, polished, and professional finish.
Conclusion
Whether you’re sewing a hook and eye, a button, or an invisible zipper, each daily improvement is a significant achievement on your sewing journey. They are skills that enhance your ability to create polished and professional-looking garments.
As you’ve learned the techniques, remember that practice is your best ally; perfection comes with persistence.
The satisfaction of achieving a seamless and nearly invisible closure is a testament to your dedication to honing your sewing skills.
So, armed with your new knowledge, embrace the challenge, take your time, and enjoy the process of seamlessly integrating zippers into your creations. With every stitch, you’re adding a touch of expertise to your sewing repertoire, making your garments stand out with a clean and sophisticated finish.
